Wandering Through Madeira, Portugal

The Madeira archipelago is an autonomous region of Portugal (including the islands of Madeira, Porto Santo, and the uninhabited islands of the Desertas, and the Salvagens) located about 805 km (500 miles) to the southwest of Portugal, 400 km (250 miles) north of the Canary Islands, and 520 km (320 miles) west of Morocco.  Together with the Azores, it is one of the two autonomous regions of Portugal and a special territory of the European Union.  The islands are on the African Tectonic Plate, but are culturally, politically, and ethnically associated with Europe, with the population principally descended from Portuguese settlers.

We arrive in Funchal, the capital on the main island's south coast and the home of roughly half the population of Madeira.  Madeira was uninhabited when it was claimed by Portuguese sailors in 1419 and settled in 1420.  The island now a year-round resort, particularly for Portuguese, British, and German tourists and is noted for its wine, flora and fauna and its pre-historic laurel forest is classified as a UNESCO World Heritage site.  Funchal's harbor has long been the leading Portuguese port for cruise ship dockings and an important stopover for Atlantic passenger cruises between Europe, the Caribbean, and North Africa.

Approaching Funchal's harbor

We leave the ship and walk along the edge of the harbor, leading to the parks along the sea.

Leaving the harbor and walking along the sea

Memorial to Nelson Mandela

Walking along the sea

We turn into the city and walk to the Mercado dos Lavradores, which is full of fresh flowers, fruit, vegetables, meat, and, especially, local fish.

Madeira is famous for its regional produce, largely due to its volcanic soils combined with the subtropical climate (and the many diverse microclimates it enjoys).  The Mercado dos Lavradores occupies a prominent place in the center of Funchal and highlights the flavors of the archipelago.

The market was founded in November of 1940 and, since then, has been part of the everyday life of the people of Funchal.  The facade, the main door, and the fishmonger's shop are decorated with large tile panels from the Faience factory of Maria de Portugal, dating from the 1940s and painted with regional themes.  The factory was known for the quality and artistry of its distinctive ceramics during a period of significant ceramic innovation in Portugal.

Entrance to the market, tile panels

Wandering through the market

In the seafood hall

When we return to the ship, we find that the chef has also been to the market and has stocked up on black scabbard fish, prized as food in the Madeira islands (and also, the Canary Islands, the Iberian Peninsula, France, and Ireland), which we have for lunch on the ship (several times) and dinner.

Black scabbard fish

This has been a great stroll through and introduction to Funchal.

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Wandering Around Santa Cruz de la Palma, Canary Islands

Santa Cruz de la Palma is the capital of the island of La Palma and is built along an old lava flow coming from the Caldereta (small caldera) volcano just south of the city.  The city has a population of around 13,000 people and is known for having the first democratically-elected town hall in Spain.

Our ship is docked near the ferries to Tenerife and La Gomera.

Ferries around the islands

We leave the port and wander through the town in a light rain, viewing the great balconies on the houses along the way, typical architecture of the Canary Islands built during the 16th and 17th centuries, reflecting a blend of Spanish, Portuguese, and Moorish influences.

Walking through the city

Views of the balconies

As we follow a street parallel to the sea, we get occasional glimpses of the sea on the far end of the pavement.

Glimpses of the sea

We emerge from the residential area to find a replica of the Santa Maria, one of Columbus' ships, now housing the Naval Museum.

Santa Maria

We wander into a park across from the Santa Maria and find cactus, statues, and murals overlooking the water.

City park

We start back toward the harbor and walk along the inviting beach, spotting more great balconies on houses facing the water, a symbol of the city's prosperity as a crucial colonial trading port and a legacy of its rich maritime history, including being a port authorized to trade with the Americas. 

Along the beach

View of the volcanic hills surrounding the city

More great balconies

We continue along the beach toward the harbor, watching the strong surf and finding a few more great sculptures.

Beach and surf

A few more sculpture

We reach the harbor and our ship and sit and watch the ferries arrive, unload, load, and depart for other destinations in the Canary Islands.

Back in the harbor

Soon, it is time for us to depart for the next island destination, leaving the Canary Islands and heading to Funchal, Madeira, an autonomous region of Portugal (one of two, the other being the Azores), 463 km (288 miles) north.