Friday, October 31, 2025

Sirmione and Grotto di Catullo

We return to Sirmione, taking the ferry across Lake Garda from Desenzano del Garda, and visit the main historical landmark of Sirmione, the Grotte di Catullo (Grottoes of Catullus), the most striking example of a Roman private villa discovered in northern Italy.  The villa was occupied between the end of the 1st century BC and the beginning of the 1st century AD and has been the subject of academic research since the 15th century.  Today, it remains an exceptional find and, along with its archaeological museum, is a must-see for anyone visiting the area.

We take a larger ferry across the lake today and pass through Sirmione's center on our way to the grottoes at the top of the peninsula.

Today's ferry, passing through the piazza in Sirmione

We enter the ruins and start to wander, past the thermal baths and heading over to the restored olive groves overlooking the lake.

Entering the property

Overlooking the lake

Restored olive groves

After the olive groves, we enter the residential area overlooking an internal garden (and the lake).



Residential area

Some of the small residences are filled with recent artwork complementing the ruins.


Art in the ruins

The archaeological complex covers an area of about two hectares (4.9 acres).  The villa was characterized by long porches and terraces open toward the lake, communicating with a large main terrace and a long covered walkway.  A garden filled the central region and a large cistern, almost 43 meters (141 feet) long, collected water for daily use.  Thermal baths and a swimming pool were located at the edge of the property

In the garden

Looking out at the lake





Continuing to wander

The small museum located next to the ruins has exhibits of materials excavated from the structures.




Museum exhibits

One interesting exhibit discusses the formation of Lake Garda over 600,000 years ago through erosion and glacial deposits from four main glaciation periods, forming the largest lake in Italy.

Formation of Lake Garda

We leave the ruins, pass by the beach at the base of the site, and head into town looking for lunch, which we find at a seafood restaurant in town:  prosciutto with melon, grilled lake fish, and fritto misto.

Beach below the ruins

Prosciutto with melon

Grilled lake fish, fritto misto

Leaving Sirmione on the ferry, we look back at the city fondly as we return to Desenzano del Garda.

Leaving Sirmione

This has been a fun stop, especially the Roman ruins.


Tuesday, October 28, 2025

Visiting Sirmione on Lake Garda

Sirmione, a short ferry ride across Lake Garda from Desenzano del Garda, is located on a peninsula that divides the lower part of Lake Garda.  The first traces of human presence in the area date from the 6th-5th millennia BC and, starting in the 1st century BC, the area was a favorite resort for rich families from Verona.  In the late Roma era (4th-5th centuries AD), Sirmione became a fortified strongpoint defending the southern shore of the lake.  Sirmione was part of the Venetian Republic from 1405 to 1797, when it was acquired by the Habsburg Empire and later became part of the Kingdom of Italy in 1860.

Sirmione is one of the most popular locations on Lake Garda, with thousands of visitors flooding in every day for the sights, resorts, thermal baths, castle, and history.  We approach on the ferry, enter the town, and wander.

Ferry arriving to pick us up

Crossing Lake Garda and approaching Sirmione


Walking into the city

A short distance into Sirmione, we reach Scaligero Castle, a medieval port fortification used by the Scaliger fleet in the 13th century.  The castle stands on a strategic location at the entrance to the peninsula and and can be accessed by two drawbridges over its moat.  And, oddly enough, an inflatable pink crocodile lives in the moat.


Scaligero Castle

Next to the castle, the beautiful small church of Sant'Anna della Rocca dates from the 12th century, used mainly by the garrison and local villagers.

Sant'Anna della Rocca

We return from the castle and reenter the town, walking along the the lake to the church of Santa Maria Maggiore (late 15th century) in the town center.

Walking along the lakeshore


Popping into Santa Maria Maggiore

We continue around the lake, approaching the top of the peninsula and then cut through a park to head back into town looking for lunch.


Continuing along the lake

Cutting through a park

Returning to town

We wander into a small restaurant and dine on tomato bruschetta, margharita pizza, and seafood salad.


Lunch

As we leave on the ferry returning to Desenzano del Garda, we look back at Sirmione and the beautiful lake-side villas, restaurants, resorts, and lake/beach activities.  The center of town is crowded, but a short distance from the center, there are quiet paths, parks, and beaches away from the main tourist attractions.

Leaving on the ferry