Friday, July 10, 2026

A Circuitous Path to Soviore and Back

We decide to hike to Santuario Nostra Signora di Soviore, the oldest Marin sanctuary in Liguria, located 470 meters (1,541 feet) above sea level and overlooking the city of Monterosso al Mare.  There is a fairly direct path up from Monterosso, but we start in another direction, leaving Monterosso to the south and climbing through the vineyards to wind around the town (and see the spectacular views of the city and the sea), then meeting up with the straightforward path about half way up and following it the rest of the way to Soviore.

We first walk through Monterosso's narrow streets and up a trail to the south.

Cutting through the village

And up the path to the south

We climb through vineyards with increasingly expansive views across the village and the sea.

Looking back at Monterosso

As we continue up

Through the vineyards

As we get higher, we reach elevations from which paragliders launch to carry adventurous people through the hills and the updrafts and downdrafts to the beach

Paragliding to the beach

Increasingly better views of Monterosso

Lucky group rides on the wine train

As we continue up on foot

We reach the top of the trail, meeting up with the road and continue along it on a path around Monterosso toward the trail from Monterosso to Soviore, which we join.

Looking down on Monterosso

Following the path up to Soviore

Looking down at Monterosso from Soviore

We pay a quick visit to the beautiful small chapel at Soviore, then return to Monterosso, once again ignoring the direct path to town and following the road north to the intersection at Colle di Gritta, then down into the northern new-town side of Monterosso (opposite where we began).


Visiting the chapel

Colle di Gritta

Welcome to the Cinque Terre National Park


Following the road down to Monterosso


Enjoying the spring flowers along the way

We enter Monterosso and walk through the new side of town to the train station where we treat ourselves to cones of mixed fried fish (shrimp, anchovies, white fish) and small bottles of wine, followed by a gelatto desert.

Entering Monterosso

Lunch

We've done a loop through the hills around Monterosso, followed by a trip up to Soviore and one of our favorite lunches.  What a great day!


Tuesday, July 7, 2026

Hiking from Bonassola to Framura and Back, Then on to Levanto (Liguria, Italy)

We start the day with the intention of hiking from Bonassola to Framura and having lunch at a favorite spot overlooking the sea below the Framura train station.  Bonassola is two villages north of Monterosso al Mare in Cinque Terre, just after Levanto.  Framura is the next stop up the coast and consists of five tiny villages (Anzo, Ravecca,Setta, Costa, and Castagnola) located on a steep hill and connected to each other by stairs).  We don't plan to walk up the stairs today, just to walk to the station at the base of the hill and on the edge of the sea.

We take the train two stops from Monterosso, descend at Bonassola, and walk through town to the beach, where we spot people paragliding from the nearby hills to the open sand.


Walking from the train station through town to the beach

Passing the focaccia shop

Paragliding to the beach

At the beach, we enter the former railroad tunnel that has been paved and turned into a hike and bike trail connecting the villages of Levanto, Bonassola, and Framura.  We follow the tunnel 2.4 km (1.5 miles) to Framura, with occasional breaks in the tunnel granting us glimpses of the sea (and small beaches).

Into the tunnel we go


Glimpses of the sea

Continuing to the end

We wander through the small harbor in Framura, pass through another short tunnel to the train station, then find that we are too early in the season and our destination cafe is not yet open on weekdays.  We turn around and return to Bonassola to track down lunch at a small sandwich shop just off the beach, where we have speck and brie paninis (and glasses of wine).


Passing through the harbor

Returning to Bonassola

Speck and brie panini

There are two routes from Bonassola to Levanto:  continue in the old train tunnels for 2.5 km (1.6 miles) or hike over the hills between the towns.  We've already done two tunnel trips today (Framura and back) and elect to hike over the hills and enjoy the sights.

Heading up into the hills

Looking back at Bonassola

The trail wanders through the forest, then emerges on the ridge between the towns and we hike out in the open, taking in the expansive views.

Through the forest

Emerging on the ridge


With broad views of sea and mountains

Soon, we descend into Levanto, continuing into town, along the beach, and then passing through the town to the train station for our return to Monterosso.


Descending to Levanto

Walking along the sea in Levanto

Returning to Monterosso

We didn't get the intended lunch in Framura, but we had a great walk and found yet a new place for lunch in Bonassola.  Quite a  great day!