Dining in Monterosso

This trip to Monterosso al Mare we try a few new restaurants, one recently opened and several that we've walked by in the past, but never stopped to dine.  We find that we've been missing out on a lot!

Our first dinner is at a several-month-old restaurant, Arzena, on via Roma, where we start with tomato tarte-tatin with ricotta cheese and tagliolino squid with peas, tomatoes, and squid ink mayo, followed by cod with parsley, bearnaise sauce and colored carrots; orecchiette with octopus ragu; and lobster spaghetti.

Starters

Cod, orecchiette

Lobster

The next evening, we try a restaurant that has been open a few years, but we just walked by previously, not realizing what we were missing.  At Ventottoposti, we start with anchovies on brown bread and butter followed by branzino and fettuccini with anchovies.  Wow!

Anchovies on brown bread

Branzino, fettuccini/anchovies

Another evening we return to Ventottopossti and try two other main courses:  salt cod with potato cream and cherry tomato confit and fusilli with sausage, eggplant, and parmesan cheese.  More winners.

Cod, fusilli

A few evenings later, we head over to Tosca, a restaurant where we dined for the first time earlier this year.  We order a meal similar to our first experience:  burrata with tomatoes, olive oil and oregano; deviled octopus with tomato, olives, capers, and chili pepper; followed by seabass with potatoes, zucchini, tomatoes, and olives; spaghetti with fresh anchovies, olives, cherry tomatoes, and creamy bread crumbs; and crispy octopus with burrata cream, celery, and confit cherry tomatoes.

Starters

Seabass, spaghetti/anchovies

Crispy octopus

A few evenings later, we return to Tosca for anchovies three ways (marinated in olive oil and lemon, fried and marinated in red onions stewed in vinegar, salted with butter and toast) and burrata with olive oil, tomatoes, and oregano (again).  For our main courses, we have trenette with clams and trenette with octopus, lemon, and zucchini.  Another great meal!

Anchovies, burrata

Trenette with various things from the sea

Near the end of the trip, we dine at an old favorite, L'Osteria, and start with assorted bruschetta, followed by  chickpea soup, ravioli with shrimp, spaghetti vongole (clams), and mussels.  Still really great every year!

To start

Mains

Once again, we have dined spectacularly in Cinque Terre and we'll be back again soon (we hope) for more great food, hikes, and friends.

Monterosso to Vernazza to Corniglia

We hike from Monterosso al Mare in Cinque Terre to the next village, Vernazza, every year, but it has been several years since we continued on from Vernazza to the next town south, Corniglia.  We decide to do both in morning and return to Vernazza for lunch.  We've recently written about the hike to Vernazza, so we'll focus on the second part of the morning, heading to Corniglia.

But, first, we can't resist a few photos leaving Monterosso and arriving in Vernazza.

Leaving Monterosso

View of the coast along the way

Vineyards (and vineyard transport) along the way

Arriving in Vernazza

Train tunnel back to Monterossso

We hustle through the market-day crowds in Vernazza and head up the hill on the other side of the village to start the trek to Corniglia.

Heading up

View down the coast 

The path continues up to the ridge and then follows the sea south.

Continuing up 

Corniglia coming into view

Continuing along the path

More glimpses of Corniglia

Although we see the Corniglia in the distance, we still have a ways to go, passing around a few hills and up and down a few small ridges.  Soon, however, we are descending into town.

The path continues along the ridge

Looking back at Monterosso

Descending into Corniglia

Arriving in Corniglia

We pass through town, walk the 382 steps down to the train station, and catch the train back to Vernazza for lunch at a favorite spot overlooking the city, La Torre, dining on spaghetti with lobster and spaghetti mari with a beautiful view of the village and the sea from our table.

Descending to the Corniglia train station

View from our table at La Torre

Two spaghetti dishes for lunch

It's been another great day of returning to one hike that we really enjoy and re-experiencing another that we had ignored for a while (but won't any more!).  We're rapidly approaching the end of our second Cinque Terre trip this year and are savoring the experiences and planning our trip(s) next year.